julia jewelry purchasing contact

My longtime customers and friends know I work with a wide variety of materials. I love plastic and old glass as much as diamonds and gold. A lot of my gemstones and beads were collected on my travels and over many years. They have become treasures from far away places and different cultures. I also buy material from stone dealers and always look for unusual pieces and cuts. This way a lot of my jewelry has become unique and one of a kind pieces.
 
But for the most part I work with traditional materials. I have gathered some information about precious metals and diamonds that can be helpful to you, especially if you are thinking about designing a custom piece.


PRECIOUS METALS

STERLING
Sterling is an alloy containing 92.5% by weight of fine silver and 7.5% by weight of other metal, usually copper. Fine silver (99.9% pure) is generally too soft to create larger functional objects but can be hardened by cold forming like hammering and bending. Sterling is much softer than gold (except 22 karat), has a bright white color and can be used with patinas such as liver of sulfur that colors silver from a yellowish brown to a deep black.

GOLD
Pure gold is called fine gold and has a very intensive yellow color. It is also very soft and rarely used for making rings. To make a harder alloy other metals like copper and silver are added to the fine gold and molten together. 

The most commonly used alloys in jewelry are 14K, 18K and 22K.

14K gold equals 585 parts fine gold combined with 415 parts of other metals
18K gold equals 750 parts fine gold combined with 250 parts of other metals
22K gold equals 900 parts fine gold combined with 100 parts of other metals

In Europe the control marks for gold often read 585, 750 or 900 instead of the karat version.

THE COLOR OF GOLD is determined by the added metals and their proportions used. They can also influence the hardness of the alloy.
The colors are:  Yellow Gold - Rose Gold - Green Gold -  White Gold

YELLOW GOLD alloys consist of fine gold with silver and copper as additive. 

ROSE GOLD is a fine gold and copper alloy. It is also known as "pink" or "red" gold. As it was popular in Russia at the beginning of the nineteenth century, it was also called Russian gold, although this term has become somewhat rare.

GREEN GOLD alloys are made by leaving the copper out of the alloy mixture, and just using fine gold and silver. It actually appears as a greenish yellow, rather than as green.

WHITE GOLD is an alloy of fine gold and at least one other white metal, usually nickel or palladium. Nickel white gold has a light gray color with a yellowish tint and palladium white gold has a darker gray color with a slightly pinkish tint. Palladium gold is a more expensive alloy than nickel gold and seldom causes allergic reactions. White gold is often rhodium plated to obtain a more neutral white color.

PLATINUM  (950 Pt)
Platinum has the highest density of all precious metals. It feels heavy in your hand compared to a similar piece in gold. It has a beautiful light gray color and an extremely high melting point.

PALLADIUM
Palladium belongs to the platinum group metals (PGM). Platinum group metals share similar chemical properties, but palladium has the lowest melting point and is the least dense of these metals. Palladium is a gray-white metal that resembles platinum. It is much lighter and about 12% harder than platinum.

PRICING

The metal market is changing daily and my pricing reflects the market. In general platinum is the most expensive metal followed by gold, palladium and silver being the most affordable. The higher the Karat value in gold, the more expensive the price. Palladium roughly equals the price of 14K gold. Of course these balances can change according to the economy since these metals are not only used for jewelry but have many industrial applications as well.

DIAMONDS

All diamonds are precious and the ones that have sentimental value even more. 
For custom work I am happy to work with the stones you provide or can help you choose the right stones within your budget.
Here is some general information about diamonds:

The diamond is the hardest raw material of our planet and is composed of pure carbon.
On the "Mohs Scala" it ranks the hardest with a hardness of 10.

In the jewelry trade the "FOUR C's" are used to calculate the value of a diamond.

CARAT WEIGHT
A diamond's weight is measured in carats. There are 5 carats in 1gram and 100 points in each carat. In general, the greater the carat size of the diamond, the greater its value per carat. But weight alone doesn't determine its brilliance and beauty, we still need to evaluate the color, clarity and cut of the diamond.

COLOR
Color describes the amount of color the diamond contains. Diamonds are graded on the "GIA" color scale from D (colorless) to Z (fancy yellow). But diamonds come in all colors of the spectrum and the rarest are transparent stones - clear as ice, or intense yellow, blue, green, pink and red diamonds.

DEF - colorless
GHIJ - near colorless
KLM  - faint yellow
NOPQ - very light yellow
STUV - light yellow
WXYZ - fancy yellow


It is also possible to influence the color of a diamond by an irradiation treatment followed by a heat treatment.

CLARITY
The clearer a diamond is, the more rare it is. Most diamonds contain natural "inclusions" that look like tiny crystals. These are the diamond's birthmarks, making each stone unique. The number, size and position of these inclusions affect the value. 


The clarity scale is broken down into the following grades:

FL -  flawless
IF -  internally flawless
VVS1 - very very slight inclusions #1
VVS2 - very very slight inclusions #2
VS1 - very slight inclusions #1
VS2 - very slight inclusions #2
SI1 - slight inclusions #1
SI2 - slight inclusions #2

I1 - inclusions #1
I2 - inclusions #2
I3 - Inclusions #3

CUT
Cut refers to the proportions, finish, symmetry and polish of the diamond. These factors determine the fire and brilliance of a diamond. Well cut diamonds sell at a premium and poorly cut diamonds sell at discount prices.

Nothing is more important to the brilliance and fire of a diamond than its cut. A well proportioned diamond reflects light from one facet to another and through the top of the stone. The "ideal cut" ranks the highest.